TR5L SSD 장착기

네이버 바이오 카페 게시 (2008/11/22)

배터리 리필이후 오랜만에 글을 씁니다. 이번에는 TR5L에 SSD장착기입니다.

윈도우가 업그레이드되면서 점점 5400RPM의 1.8인치 도시바 하드는 점점 느려져서 노트북을 교체할까 고민하고 있던 중 SSD의 가격이 많이 떨어진 것을 확인하였습니다. 20만원대 초반에 32기가가 가능하기도 하고, TR5의 키보드가 너무 마음에 들어서 다른 노트북 구매를 주저하던 찰나에 바로 구입했습니다. TR5는 CF타입인데 CF타입 삼성 SSD는 너무 비싸서 엠트론의 ZIF타입과 ZIF-CF컨버터를 같이 구입하였습니다.

일단 TR5분해를 처음했는데, 풀 나사에 모두 화살표가 되어있고 (안되어있는 것도 있네요.) 생각보다 편하게 분해가 가능했습니다.

주의사항은 나사가 긴것과 작은것 두가지인데 헛갈리면 안됩니다. (밑에 사진 넣을께요.)

1. 상단을 열면 HDD가 나오고 HDD 컨넥터를 본체와 분리하고, 컨넥터를 HDD와 분리하였습니다.

2. HDD의 양모서리에 달린 고무바킹을 떼어냈습니다. (HDD쓰려고 외장케이스도 구입했습니다.)

3. 판매사이트에 나와있는대로 ZIF-CF컨버터와 전선필름(정확한 용어 몰라요-_-)을 연결 및 고정시키고 컨버터를 HDD컨넥터에 끼었습니다. 이때, 컨버터의 양모서리에 튀어나온부분이 소니 컨넥터의 부분에 걸려서 컨버터의 양쪽을 커터로 잘라내었습니다.

4. 대략 SSD-전선필름-컨버터-컨넥터 이렇게 연결된 모양입니다.

5. 그리고 케이지에 일단 SSD를 껴보고 본체의 컨넥터에 맞춰본 후 전선필름을 SSD위로 접어서 3M테이프로 고정하였습니다.

6. 아까 떼어낸 고무바킹을 SSD의 각모서리에 끼고 케이지에 넣은 후 컨넥터를 본체와 연결하고 난 후 HDD 고정가이드를 덮고 나사 1개로 다시 조립했습니다. 케이지가 꽤 여유가 있고, 모서리 바킹으로 고정시키는 방식이라 고정도 되면서 공간도 있어서 젠더랑 연결하기 참 좋은 구조같습니다.

단, 처음에 기억력 믿고 나사풀었다가 긴나사, 짧은나사 위치 헛갈려서 뭔가 이상하게 조립했다는 것입니다. 오늘 뒤져서 다행히 나사별 위치나온 사이트 있어서 아래 올리겠습니다.

모두 설치하고나서 CMOS에서 잡은거 확인하고 윈도우 설치하고 이거저거 필수 프로그램 깔아서 대략 25기가정도 설치했습니다. 속도는 기대이상으로 매우 빠릅니다. 부팅속도는 윈도우만 깔고 15초, 25기가 깔고 30초에 뜨고 반응속도 환상입니다.

TR5가 CPU1.1인데 쓰는 속도는 요즘 코어2듀오 데스크탑 뜨는 수준으로 실행됩니다. 인터넷도 버벅거림 없이 잘되서 정말 기뻤습니다.

제가 찍어논 사진이 없어서 TR5의 분해사진을 외국 사이트에서 찾았습니다. 나사 주의깊게 보세요.

제 글이 도움이 되었기를 바랍니다.

This step by step guide on how to take your Sony TR laptop apart and replace the hard drive

1. Back up all your data. We’re going to do a from-scratch restore - once the disk is out you’re going to have no way of getting anything off it. Find your Sony restore CD.

2. Take the battery off. Remove anything you have in the memorystick slot. Unplug any external connectors.

3. Prize off the two rear rubber feet. I did it with a flat screwdriver. Usually one side is stuck down slightly better than the other.

4. Undo the twelve screws marked here. Five will be shorter than the others - I’ve circled them yellow. It’s possible that some of these twelve don’t actually need to be undone - if someone lets me know I’ll amend this. I undid them all, and nothing bad fell off.

5. Remove one more screw from underneath the memory card cover.

6. Turn the laptop back over, being careful to catch any screws you couldn’t get out. There are two little plastic clips that hold the top of the keyboard down. They’re above the F6 and F11 keys, as shown here.

Push them back with a flat screwdriver and lift the keyboard from the back with your nails.

7. The keyboard is attached to the motherboard by a ribbon cable - on the connector there’s a little brown tab to the right of the ribbon cable. If you lift this up, the ribbon cable will slide out.

8. Righty, keyboard off. Are you nervous yet? There’s another long screw you will have to undo at the top left of the case, as shown here.

9. There’s a little ribbon cable which attaches the touch pad to the motherboard - it’s got a small blue tab attached to it. Give that a pull (as shown here) and it’ll come out.

10. The cover is now ready to come off. It lifts from the back - you might find that you have to squeeze it past the parts where it connects to the screen a little, highlighted here.

11. The hard disk is the black blob at the bottom left. There’ll be one short screw left to undo, at the bottom left, as shown here.

12. The interface cable for the HD joins the motherboard just to the right of the HD. Pull this plug out - you may need to carefully prize it up with a screwdriver a little before you can lift it with your fingers.

13. Yay! The hard disk will now lift out. Remember how much this thing cost? And look at it now, just a big bunch of screws and some cables. And you took it all to bits based on some instructions you read on the internet, from someone who even ADMITTED they’d never done it before. Well, it’s too late now.

14. The hard disk is surrounded by a bit of black plastic - carefully unpeel this, starting at the end that doesn’t have the HD connector on it. Don’t tear it - you’ll need to put it back onto the new disk.

15. Whilst unwrapping the HD, the interface cable will also be glued on - carefully prize this off too.

16. OK - the hard disk is now out. Carefully remove the interface cable from your old HD (again, you might need the screwdriver - don’t lift one end of it first and then the other - try to remove it evenly so as not to bend any pins). Remember which way up it went. You did remember, right? You didn’t remove it, put it on the table and go back to this guide?

17. The HD has two little brackets on either end - remove these and put them onto the new HD. Make sure that you put them on the correct ends, and that you put them the right way up - in a couple of these photos mine are on the wrong ends (I had to swap them about) so don’t look too carefully for my advice. Remember I am just some guy on the internet who admitted he’d never done it before. It’s partly your own fault.

18. Put the interface cable onto the new HD. Make sure it’s the right way up. Don’t press it in with your fingers, as it’ll hurt as much as it did when I did it. Push it with something else - a pad of paper or something, as I’m doing here.

19. There’s a little rubber pad attached to the old hard disk (at least there was on mine) which tallies up to a small square hole in the black plastic that wraps the disk. Prize it off the old diska€|

… and put it onto the new one.

 

20. The new disk is ready to go in - make sure you slot the right-hand end in first, because there’s a little notch that the top-right foot has to go into.

21. OK - you’re pretty much done. Keep paying attention though, so you don’t forget to put all of the screws back in (like, ahem, I did).

22. Put back the bottom-left special small hdd screw in the disk cradle (removed in step 11).

23. Push the drive connector back down.

24. Put the top cover back on (front-first).

25. Reattach the top cover ribbon cable (removed in step 9).

26. Replace the long screw in the top left of the case (removed in step 8 ).

27. Re-attach the keyboard ribbon cable, remembering to clip down the connector that holds it in (removed in step 7).

28. Put the keyboard back on, bottom first, making sure the two clips above F6 and F11 snap into place to hold it down.

29. Turn the laptop over, and replace the small screw inside the memory compartment (removed in step 5).

30. Replace all twelve screws in the bottom of the machine (removed in step 4 - use the picture in step 4 to ensure you put them back in the right places).

31. Make yourself a stiff drink.